Tuesday 27 August 2013

The hidden history of Southampton

About one month ago, my parents popped down to visit. Having been here for nearly four years, I was shocked to realise I’d never taken them to Southampton Common, since they love heading outdoors. So after lunch, we wandered through the campus and along to the common to walk around – between rain showers!

We came to the cemetery, situated on the common, and decided to go in. I’d walked (and jogged) past the entrance a number of times, but never thought to go in. It’s amazing; Southampton is full of history, but students pass by it every day!



My dad walking down the cemetery path


The cemetery is the resting place for thousands and thousands – from the fallen soldiers of World Wars One and Two, to members of the Titanic; from mayors to members of parliament. The graves spread as far as the eye can see, surrounded by trees, tall grass, and the odd blooming flowerbed. It’s really quite odd, to step out of the common, away from the BBQs and games of Frisbee, and into the tranquil space meant for remembrance.



The stonework is stunning in the cemetery, and is often a couple of hundred years old


Being in the cemetery really makes you think. It’s also part of an almost morbid fascination, especially for those interested in the Titanic and its victims. It’s also really quite beautiful.

The next day, mum and I headed to the SeaCity museum, possibly inspired by our visit to the cemetery, to see the exhibition ‘Southampton’s Titanic story’. Not having been able to visit last year for the centenary celebrations, I wanted to see the exhibition before I left for good, and saw this as a perfect opportunity.



Visiting the SeaCity Museum, with a rhino, of course!


The exhibition was really worth going to, and we spent almost two hours wandering through the maze of exhibits, following a selected number of Southampton citizens through their journey aboard the ill-fated vessel. We were shown everything – from cargo on the ship, to the homes of those employed to work on board. The most poignant moments came at the end, when we listened to short clips of survivors recounting the sinking, and saw a giant map indicating where deceased members of the crew had come from in the city. It really brought the tragedy closer to home when I spotted my former student homes on the map – both had seen deaths on the Titanic.

More than 540 people from Southampton died on the Titanic – some crew members as young as fifteen, and hundreds coming from extreme poverty. I couldn’t help but wonder how excited they must have been at the possibility of work. I found the exhibition very moving, but also incredibly interesting – I really recommend a visit!

Southampton’s rich history doesn’t stop at the Titanic, though. As you wander around the city centre, you will come across parts of the old town; ruins of the old city walls, and buildings from the past. The most obvious one is Bargate, the old entrance to the city built in Norman times, found just past West Quay shopping centre.



Dad and I (complete with a rhino!) at the Bargate which looked splendid in the sunshine


My parents happened to visit last week, too, as a final trip before I move away from here for good. We decided to spend the day visiting the waterside, and stumbled across some ruins just up from Mayflower Park, near the docks. These are part of what looks like a small village, or jail, with a chapel too. The garden in these walls commemorates the arrival of French Huguenots over 300 years ago – which interests me greatly after recently being told that I have French Huguenot ancestors!



The ruins, commemorating the French Huguenots – another little historic spot in the city!


As you wander around the old town, you will walk over plaques in the pavement detailing historical events linked to Southampton.

We also found a small ruined church not far from Mayflower Park, just on from Bargate. I could see a tree in the middle of the inner courtyard from the other side of the road, and decided to explore. Here, I found a memorial, stating the purpose of the church’s ruins.



Holyrood Church, not far from Mayflower Park, seems to be overlooked, but is a really beautiful historic site


It stated that this was Holyrood Church, and was known for centuries as the ‘Church of the Sailors’. After being damaged by enemy action on 30 November, 1940, it was left as a memorial to those who served in the Merchant-Navy and those who lost their lives at sea.

Inside the ruin is a beautiful tree and a memorial to the Titanic victims. The weather was gorgeous, and with the sunshine it really felt as though we were somewhere in the Mediterranean, rather than Southampton! It was a little haven of peace, and a beautiful way to commemorate those lost in action.



I thought it was a stunning memorial to those who served in World War Two


This brings to light Southampton’s huge involvement in the Second World War. As a major port, it was heavily involved, and therefore targeted by enemy bombers. The Luftwaffe dropped over 476 tons of bombs on the city in November 1940, and 137 people died. As a result, most of the original city, including the Georgian architecture, has been lost. If you look at the city closely as you wander around, the buildings are mostly fairly new and of a typical style for the post-war, since much of it had to be rebuilt. Though we lost most of our old buildings, this is all part of the city’s history.

Interestingly, I also found out that Southampton was involved in the aircraft industry between around 1908 and the 1960s, famously including the development of the Spitfire. There is a museum dedicated to aviation, called Solent Sky – just another museum which portrays the history of the city!

Not only this, but legend has it that Southampton is where King Canute may have tried to stop the tide! The city was also hit hard by the Black Death and the Plague due to the merchant ships using the dock, bringing it in from overseas, and it was even at one point a fashionable spa town in 1740, with rooms built to utilise the incoming tide for bathing.

And who could forget about the Mayflower, which left Southampton to take the Pilgrims to their new lives in 1623 – commencing Southampton’s important role in emigration to countries all over the world. A few weeks ago my mum also told me that my own great-Grandfather had travelled on the RMS Queen Mary from Southampton to America in 1934… so it seems that, unbeknownst to me, I’ve had a connection with Southampton for over eighty years!



Let’s not forget the history of Winchester, with King Arthur’s Round Table!


It’s very easy to forget that Southampton has such a big role in history – even aside from Titanic. There are so many points of interest all over the city – and in Winchester (King Arthur’s Round Table and the cathedral being just two main attractions). In fact, if you think about it, our own university itself has a place in history!  If you have a spare day or two when you’re here in Southampton, and you enjoy finding out more about your surroundings, I really recommend going on a bit of an adventure, and seeking out the forgotten pockets of history that surround us as we go about our everyday lives.

Joanne

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